Just keep on using me 'til you use me up

I have worn this jacket pretty much every day that it has been cold for about the last six or seven years.



Needless to say, it is a little worn... Worn out perhaps? I've been avoiding the thought. It feels like the death of a pet to me... really quite a loss, but inevitable. So like anyone I refused to let it happen! Garment Reaper be damned!!!

So Friday I spent tracing each pattern piece in the jacket and drafting pattern pieces from them and Sunday I spent cutting out and sewing a muslin. I'm just so excited about having another perfect jacket I had to share!

And the coolest part is I can make the sleeves longer! The sleeves on few garments ever are long enough for me. I have monkey long arms... Any way, I also thought of making the collar bigger as well. Thoughts?

It's a sew along!

I've been participating in a holiday sew along with the girls at the designers lounge that has been mucho fun. We all start with the same pattern. New Look 6723; a very basic party dress. We then all make our own alterations or chose a view, post our progress to the blog each week and then have a fancy dress party afterwards! Yay!

I'm pretty much a week behind in posting this but here you go!








This week's assignment is make alterations and cut out your fabric. Better get to work! Pictures are due tonight at midnight!

The Alison- Bathing suit

Recently I downloaded a free pattern at Burdastyle.com for a vintage inspired bathing suit that I fell in love with. Unfortunately there were only six steps in the instructions on how to construct said suit. So, through a lot of trial and error, i.e. seam ripping and extra pattern pieces, I wrote up some pattern instructions!

SO,with out further ado...

From Burdastyle

Alison Vintage Inspired Bathing Suit Instructions

Since this pattern comes with very few, almost useless, instruction, I have written my own as I went along making this suit. I took out almost ever seam at least once. I have also added some markings to the pattern to make matching up pattern pieces during sewing easier. I added a notch to the center front pattern piece, the center fold insert on the curved side at the grain line and to the center tab piece on one of the ends. All you need to do to make these notches is to find the center of each pattern piece and draw the notch. I also disregarded the seam allowances because I felt the suit fit too small and the added seam allowance made the fit better.

1. Body: Stitch FRONT to BACK at side seams

2. Crotch: Stitch CROTCH to BACK with RIGHT sides together

3. Pin CROTCH to FRONT with RIGHT sides together. Baste.

4. On INSIDE of suit pin CROTCH LINING RIGHT side to WRONG side, sandwiching FRONT between CROTCH and CROTCH LINING. Stitch.

5. Fold CROTCH LINING over stitching of back to crotch and pin on the outside. Top stitch on the OUTSIDE.

6. Center Insert and Tab: Fold CENTER TAB lengthwise and stitch. Turn.

7. Match notches of FRONT and CENTER TAB. Stitch.

8. Using long machine stitches make a gathering stitch on un-notched edges of CENTER FRONT INSERT. (Do not gather yet.)

9. Pin CENTER FRONT INSERT (INSERT) to FRONT matching notches. Baste.

10. Pin CENTER TAB to FRONT matching notches. Baste. (Make sure that the seam of the center tab is not facing out.)

11. Fold INSERT over so suit is inside the INSERT. Pin INSERT to FRONT matching notches. Stitch through all three layers and tab making sure not to catch any of the suit or tab in stitching. Turn. (This step is like making a yoke on a shirt so that no seams are visible on the inside.)

12. Pull up gathering stitches. Machine-baste the raw edges together.

13. Fold loose TAB end to INSIDE of suit and pin from the OUTSIDE. Stitch in the ditch on OUTSIDE.

14. Straps: Fold the long STRAP lengthwise with WRONG sides together. Mark Center and pin to center of BACK. Stitch from center out stretching strap while sewing. (This keeps the strap taught against your back.) Stop 1inch from the top of INSERT.

15. Line up STRAP with edge of INSERT and cut a 1cm slit in the STRAP.

16. Turn remaining STRAP section RIGHT sides together and stitch the remaining raw edges to the slit. Turn RIGHT sides out through 1in opening. Stitch opening closed.

17. Fold BACK STRAP RIGHT sides together lengthwise. Stitch. Turn.

18. Pin BACK STRAP to seam allowances above where FRONT and INSERT seam. (This placement reduces side boob action immensely.) Stitch.

19. Serge or zigzag the STRAP seam. Back stitch where INSERT meets STRAP for reinforcement. Trim close to stitches.

20. Closure: this is entirely dependent on what you prefer. I had enough strap to tie a knot, but I find that uncomfortable so I added a swim suit closure. To do this measure the correct length of strap the sew the closure on one end and a small loop on the other.

21. Leg openings: I used 3/8’’ cotton swimsuit elastic to finish the leg openings. Measure the length around the leg opening and cut that length of elastic. Fold the fabric over the elastic and zigzag around the whole opening. Backstitch where the elastic meets. Trim any excess fabric.

I got some help with the binding of the back strap from this blog. I was a little confused since she is French and while her English is millions of times better than my French, the instructions weren't as specific as I'd like... But without her I don't think I would have gotten it at all. So many thanks!

and here is the final product in case you were curious (sans finished leg holes) Please excuse my camera phone...

Call me the Commissioner, Batman.

Recently, I was commissioned to make a dress for a friend in another state. She sent me some inspiration links and we emailed back and forth to get the details hammered out. Things have been rolling along and I thought that this would be a fun little project to follow along on the blog. (Not to mention she would be able to see my progress!)

She is a real fan of Japanese fashion and all things crafty. Her blog is here So here are the inspiration photos she sent me.





And through some discussion this is the sketch I came up with.



I plan on adapting a pattern I was given a few months ago for a rather plain A line dress. I will have to make some alterations and embellishments, but I hope (fingers crossed) that it will come out the way she imagined!

Day or evening....?

I found a cute pattern I thought would make a very nice summer dress. It was flowing and loose with an interesting inset and cute sleeves that reminded me of butterflies.





And here is my version. I am in love with this dark green olive color. ( I will explain the cop out of the dress form picture)





My issue is.... it kind of looks like a night gown, right?







I am all for the granny look, but I feel like this dress can only be accessorized with foam rollers and a pair of marabou slippers (cigarette optional of course). I think with the sash it could be a cute it's-really-too-hot-to-wear-clothes dress for July and August.







Should I throw out my sweats and wear this for pj's? Or can this be worn out during the day (sans curlers)? Perhaps shorter?







Let me know if I should hem it, pitch it or relegate it to the bedroom....

2.4.10 outfit

I know its been a really long time since I have posted an outfit, but this is the finished product of what I gave you a sneak peak at in my zipper tutorial! Today we had a two hour snow delay and my morning was actually productive which is why I now have outfit shots! Happy day!




The dress was inspired by Elizabeth's dress over at Delightfully Tacky. I wanted this dress so badly, but I had no idea where or when she got it, so there was really no way for me to buy it, so I set out to make my own!





At first I looked for a pattern for the same type of dress at Joanne and online.



Then when I had spent hours and not found what I was looking for, I looked through the dress patterns I already had (duh)...

{I love the light in my kitchen…}

There was one dress that is a Project Runway inspired pattern that had many different options that I could use and I liked the top and the sleeves...






But it didn't have the right skirt… I wanted a full circle shirt and it had only slim and pleated so I looked through and found a pattern with a circle skirt.




I took the two patterns and put them together and this is what I got!

{coffee anyone?}

p.s. the boots that I have not been able to separate from my feet for the past few months were a very wonderful present from my sister for Christmas. She gave me a gift card for Shoes on a Shoe String and they were the last pair and they were my exact size! It was destiny for ten bucks.

p.p.s. Broke Girl's cost break down of the dress
Fabric: 0$ (free from a friend)
Zipper: 0.10$ (thrift store)
Patterns: 2.83$ (when cost is divided by uses)

Total: 2.93$ Score!

Zippers!

I know zippers are a pain the behind to put into anything unless you sew them in very carefully. The easiest thing to do is… follow the instructions. Lol! Seriously! Your pattern will have specific instructions on how the zipper is to be put into your specific garment.If it says to press one seam allowance more than the other (half an inch and five eights is popular) it's because they want the zipper to be "lapped" or hidden with one seam allowance laying over the zipper and meeting the other seam allowance.If it says to press both seam allowances the same it is a "slot" or "centered" application. I will go over a lapped insertion in a dress

My sewing book has very detailed descriptions and depictions of how to do both kinds of insertions as well as invisible, either way you will need a zipper foot. A regular zipper foot is the little skinny one. An invisible zipper foot has grooves. You can get away with using the skinny one for both though.

Start by pressing the seam allowances under the specified amount. Then pin one side of the zipper tape to your garment opening.
(your pattern should tell you which side to do first, its usually the back side).

(sorry for the blurry pictures, its hard to take one handed pictures)

Then baste the zipper to the garment. I know this sounds like a pain, but it is to make sure that the zipper lays flat against your body and doesn't get all wavy and wonky.

Next you will do the same with the other side of your seam allowance. Make sure that the seam over laps the zipper and meets the other seam allowance, hiding the zipper.

Pin and baste just like the other side of the zipper.

Once you take the pins out make sure you inspect your job. Make sure it lays flat where it should and flares where it should. And the zipper is hidden all the way down.

Then you stitch! In the dress stitch the top and the bottom in a big long rectangle shape. Then give it a good press and you're done!

I'm going to leave you hanging on what the dress actually looks like since I haven't done outfit shots of it yet! Happy sewing!

Fabric Choice

Hi all! I thought that since Penguin would not let me sleep in like I had planned on doing today I would pop in with a little sewing advice before I jump into the more meaty topics I have planned for the week. So here is a little continuation on my "Teaching Blythe to Sew Via the Internet" project I started. I know... it's been slow going... anyway...

Now that you have chosen your pattern in your correct size, head on over to that other part of the fabric store, you know, that fun part. That part with all the fabric! Now before you go completely wild looking, and undoubtedly feeling, all those wonderfully awesome materials, take a deep breath and pause to take one more look at the back of you pattern. Right there where it says "fabric choice" or "suggested fabrics."


As you may have guessed, these are the fabrics you should choose from. Not because these pattern makers are fabric Nazis, but because they drafted the darn thing, they think they know what fabric it should be made out of! Gasp! And as much as I hate being told what to do, they are generally right.

There also happens to be a post on this very topic at another of my very favorite bloggers Gertie at her blog for better sewing! She can offer you a more concise explanation of pattern type and why it warrants a certain fabric type (this is relevant for all patterns, not just vintage ones, which is what she is discussing). She is my all time sewing hero... Take heed!

Weekends Pt. 2

The weekend before last I started a new method of sewing… Assembly line! I did all the things I would normally do one pattern at a time, for all the patterns I have been planning on making. I wrote down all the notions I needed, picked fabric, cut out the tissue, etc. for all these…



I then started all the ones that needed to be sewn with black thread. Penguin was a huge help…



It has proved very successful as I now have two new shirts and a dress made in just one weekend… Outfit posts to come.

p.s. I have another tutorial I made while finishing up my dress...

Sizing! weee!

A friend of mine who lives in another state has asked me for help learning how to sew. Since it is hard for me to get to California (being the broke girl) I will be posting tutorials and making videos prompted by her questions in the hopes that they will help her and any other happy seamstresses out there! So here is the first in what is hopefully a very helpful series! (side note: I can't get the video to upload so to make this interesting, you get to look at funny pictures of me.)

So here goes! This was the most alarming of her many questions:

Are the sizes on a pattern really the size you think it is? How can you be sure w/ out cutting everything out and ruining your material?

First, PUT DOWN THE SCISSORS!

The first you need to have is a measuring tape.

If you don't, you can use string and a ruler.

Measure yourself over your undergarments. Take measurements at three places: Bust (around the fullest part of your breast), Waist (the smallest part of your waist), and Hips (around the fullest part of your hips) Mine are 33, 27.5 and 36 (how is that for honesty?) I know this can be a little scary, but honesty is the ONLY policy in sewing your own clothes.

Ok so write this down

and run off to the pattern store and go wild!

Look through the catalogues and find yourself a wonderful pattern. When you go to find it in the drawer, flip to the back and pull out your little scrap of paper with you numbers on it. Look on the pattern where it says "Body Measurements" there you will find those 3 measurements; bust, waist, hips. It will look something like this:

Now, the measurements on the back will most likely not be exactly the same as yours, so pick the closest ones. I usually go with the bust size. For instance a size 6 (in a sewing pattern) measures 30.5, 23, 32.5. (not even close to my real measurements even though I wear a 6 in store bought clothes) So my real measurements give me a size 12 (34, 26.5, 34.5) almost twice the number you look for at the Macy's lol! So don't get scared!

Ok once you have found your size according to the pattern you chose, flip that envelope back to the front and see if at the top where it says SIZE, your size is listed. This is important because patterns are not returnable!

If you are making a shirt the hip measurement won't be as important as the bust and if you are making a skirt the bust won't even be listed, so get as close as possible to the measurements that matter.

Underneath the measurements and size you will find the yardage you will need to make your size.

If you aren't sure or if you are two very different sizes, go for the bigger size. It is easier to take away than add fabric!

If you have any questions of your own that you would like to pose to me, or if this is totally confusing,

Please feel free to email them to me! morbidlovexox@yahoo.com

Completed Pattern of the Week!

Hello blog world, it's me Sarah. I've missed you. :) I've been gone for so long it seems with school and holidays and being sick… ugh. So here goes.

I've completed a number of projects and started some new ones over the break. This one is the pattern of the week Very Easy Vogue 8544. I posted some progress shots a while ago and here is the finished product!



A little causal with a tee and flats




Dressed up with a blouse and heels!



I did have to hem it twice because the length was all wrong for my shortness, but I really love the way it turned out. Hope you do to!

Pattern of the week progress 11.9.2009

Instead of another pattern that I "plan" to make ;) this week I will show the progress I have made on the first pattern of the week.
Vogue 8544.


I made this in the crepe back satin I had planned, using the crepe side.


I'm trying out seam binding( although I don't think I'm doing it correctly) because the fabric ravels so easily.


I put in a purple zipper to match the seams.


I'm going to have to adjust the darts because I'm a little thicker around the middle than the pattern ideals…


I think once I throw the waist band on it'll be perfect. Modeled pictures of the finished project next week, Lets keep our fingers crossed!

Pattern of the week 11.2.2009

Happy November! And to think it the year is almost over! I haven't done nearly enough of anything really! Well, in the spirit of doing what I said I would do… Here is this week's pattern.

Simplicity 5878. (circa 1965)

I absolutely love this little dress what with its little sash and pockets! I might just make one of each view. I will most definitely make at least one. Once I can finish the multitude of projects that are already laying about… This weekend was a strange one some what, in that is was four days long:) and that I wasn't even in town. I've been gallivanting about the state with the husband visiting family. And the best part about this weekend? Besides Halloween, that is? My mother took me to the Goodwill and bought me everything I wanted! I almost died with happiness. So I hope to be doing some wardrobe remixing, a la the Clothes Horse. So be looking for those in the coming days.

No fuss Darts!

How to sew a dart This is so easy I can't even believe I hadn't thought of it myself!!!! No need for chalk or to tie off at the end! Thanks for the link Casey!

Pattern of the Week 10.26.2009

Sorry, I know I said tomorrow, but I've been in and out of cold medicine induced comas for a week, so this one is early for next week.

This weeks' pattern is one I acquired from my mother's collection: McCall's 5135.



I have no idea how I ended up with this pattern, but I still remember my mother in a floor length pink version of this dress as a house coat. I don't clearly remember if it was even this pattern specifically, but in my time clouded childhood memory, I remember this was her house coat.

I love how this pattern is from a "Pounds Thinner" collection and is only a size 12. I am definitely my mothers' daughter, we are the same size, we have the exact same body type. I can only hope I look as good as she does in thirty years.

I don't know if I'll attempt this one. I feel like it may ruin my memory...