The Alison- Bathing suit

Recently I downloaded a free pattern at Burdastyle.com for a vintage inspired bathing suit that I fell in love with. Unfortunately there were only six steps in the instructions on how to construct said suit. So, through a lot of trial and error, i.e. seam ripping and extra pattern pieces, I wrote up some pattern instructions!

SO,with out further ado...

From Burdastyle

Alison Vintage Inspired Bathing Suit Instructions

Since this pattern comes with very few, almost useless, instruction, I have written my own as I went along making this suit. I took out almost ever seam at least once. I have also added some markings to the pattern to make matching up pattern pieces during sewing easier. I added a notch to the center front pattern piece, the center fold insert on the curved side at the grain line and to the center tab piece on one of the ends. All you need to do to make these notches is to find the center of each pattern piece and draw the notch. I also disregarded the seam allowances because I felt the suit fit too small and the added seam allowance made the fit better.

1. Body: Stitch FRONT to BACK at side seams

2. Crotch: Stitch CROTCH to BACK with RIGHT sides together

3. Pin CROTCH to FRONT with RIGHT sides together. Baste.

4. On INSIDE of suit pin CROTCH LINING RIGHT side to WRONG side, sandwiching FRONT between CROTCH and CROTCH LINING. Stitch.

5. Fold CROTCH LINING over stitching of back to crotch and pin on the outside. Top stitch on the OUTSIDE.

6. Center Insert and Tab: Fold CENTER TAB lengthwise and stitch. Turn.

7. Match notches of FRONT and CENTER TAB. Stitch.

8. Using long machine stitches make a gathering stitch on un-notched edges of CENTER FRONT INSERT. (Do not gather yet.)

9. Pin CENTER FRONT INSERT (INSERT) to FRONT matching notches. Baste.

10. Pin CENTER TAB to FRONT matching notches. Baste. (Make sure that the seam of the center tab is not facing out.)

11. Fold INSERT over so suit is inside the INSERT. Pin INSERT to FRONT matching notches. Stitch through all three layers and tab making sure not to catch any of the suit or tab in stitching. Turn. (This step is like making a yoke on a shirt so that no seams are visible on the inside.)

12. Pull up gathering stitches. Machine-baste the raw edges together.

13. Fold loose TAB end to INSIDE of suit and pin from the OUTSIDE. Stitch in the ditch on OUTSIDE.

14. Straps: Fold the long STRAP lengthwise with WRONG sides together. Mark Center and pin to center of BACK. Stitch from center out stretching strap while sewing. (This keeps the strap taught against your back.) Stop 1inch from the top of INSERT.

15. Line up STRAP with edge of INSERT and cut a 1cm slit in the STRAP.

16. Turn remaining STRAP section RIGHT sides together and stitch the remaining raw edges to the slit. Turn RIGHT sides out through 1in opening. Stitch opening closed.

17. Fold BACK STRAP RIGHT sides together lengthwise. Stitch. Turn.

18. Pin BACK STRAP to seam allowances above where FRONT and INSERT seam. (This placement reduces side boob action immensely.) Stitch.

19. Serge or zigzag the STRAP seam. Back stitch where INSERT meets STRAP for reinforcement. Trim close to stitches.

20. Closure: this is entirely dependent on what you prefer. I had enough strap to tie a knot, but I find that uncomfortable so I added a swim suit closure. To do this measure the correct length of strap the sew the closure on one end and a small loop on the other.

21. Leg openings: I used 3/8’’ cotton swimsuit elastic to finish the leg openings. Measure the length around the leg opening and cut that length of elastic. Fold the fabric over the elastic and zigzag around the whole opening. Backstitch where the elastic meets. Trim any excess fabric.

I got some help with the binding of the back strap from this blog. I was a little confused since she is French and while her English is millions of times better than my French, the instructions weren't as specific as I'd like... But without her I don't think I would have gotten it at all. So many thanks!

and here is the final product in case you were curious (sans finished leg holes) Please excuse my camera phone...

Zippers!

I know zippers are a pain the behind to put into anything unless you sew them in very carefully. The easiest thing to do is… follow the instructions. Lol! Seriously! Your pattern will have specific instructions on how the zipper is to be put into your specific garment.If it says to press one seam allowance more than the other (half an inch and five eights is popular) it's because they want the zipper to be "lapped" or hidden with one seam allowance laying over the zipper and meeting the other seam allowance.If it says to press both seam allowances the same it is a "slot" or "centered" application. I will go over a lapped insertion in a dress

My sewing book has very detailed descriptions and depictions of how to do both kinds of insertions as well as invisible, either way you will need a zipper foot. A regular zipper foot is the little skinny one. An invisible zipper foot has grooves. You can get away with using the skinny one for both though.

Start by pressing the seam allowances under the specified amount. Then pin one side of the zipper tape to your garment opening.
(your pattern should tell you which side to do first, its usually the back side).

(sorry for the blurry pictures, its hard to take one handed pictures)

Then baste the zipper to the garment. I know this sounds like a pain, but it is to make sure that the zipper lays flat against your body and doesn't get all wavy and wonky.

Next you will do the same with the other side of your seam allowance. Make sure that the seam over laps the zipper and meets the other seam allowance, hiding the zipper.

Pin and baste just like the other side of the zipper.

Once you take the pins out make sure you inspect your job. Make sure it lays flat where it should and flares where it should. And the zipper is hidden all the way down.

Then you stitch! In the dress stitch the top and the bottom in a big long rectangle shape. Then give it a good press and you're done!

I'm going to leave you hanging on what the dress actually looks like since I haven't done outfit shots of it yet! Happy sewing!

Sizing! weee!

A friend of mine who lives in another state has asked me for help learning how to sew. Since it is hard for me to get to California (being the broke girl) I will be posting tutorials and making videos prompted by her questions in the hopes that they will help her and any other happy seamstresses out there! So here is the first in what is hopefully a very helpful series! (side note: I can't get the video to upload so to make this interesting, you get to look at funny pictures of me.)

So here goes! This was the most alarming of her many questions:

Are the sizes on a pattern really the size you think it is? How can you be sure w/ out cutting everything out and ruining your material?

First, PUT DOWN THE SCISSORS!

The first you need to have is a measuring tape.

If you don't, you can use string and a ruler.

Measure yourself over your undergarments. Take measurements at three places: Bust (around the fullest part of your breast), Waist (the smallest part of your waist), and Hips (around the fullest part of your hips) Mine are 33, 27.5 and 36 (how is that for honesty?) I know this can be a little scary, but honesty is the ONLY policy in sewing your own clothes.

Ok so write this down

and run off to the pattern store and go wild!

Look through the catalogues and find yourself a wonderful pattern. When you go to find it in the drawer, flip to the back and pull out your little scrap of paper with you numbers on it. Look on the pattern where it says "Body Measurements" there you will find those 3 measurements; bust, waist, hips. It will look something like this:

Now, the measurements on the back will most likely not be exactly the same as yours, so pick the closest ones. I usually go with the bust size. For instance a size 6 (in a sewing pattern) measures 30.5, 23, 32.5. (not even close to my real measurements even though I wear a 6 in store bought clothes) So my real measurements give me a size 12 (34, 26.5, 34.5) almost twice the number you look for at the Macy's lol! So don't get scared!

Ok once you have found your size according to the pattern you chose, flip that envelope back to the front and see if at the top where it says SIZE, your size is listed. This is important because patterns are not returnable!

If you are making a shirt the hip measurement won't be as important as the bust and if you are making a skirt the bust won't even be listed, so get as close as possible to the measurements that matter.

Underneath the measurements and size you will find the yardage you will need to make your size.

If you aren't sure or if you are two very different sizes, go for the bigger size. It is easier to take away than add fabric!

If you have any questions of your own that you would like to pose to me, or if this is totally confusing,

Please feel free to email them to me! morbidlovexox@yahoo.com

New shoes... sort of.

So I have been loooonging for new shoes and just haven't had the scratch to buy them. I have been trying to be more inventive with my existing wardrobe and since I can't find in my expansive craft stash a way to MAKE shoes I started looking at my old shoes in a new way.

All of my shoes I bought because at one time or another I loved them and HAD to have them :) but I had either worn them out or they had fallen out of my regular rotation at some point or another for some reason or another…

So what's a savvy girl to do? Why, take your old pair of gently "loved" shoes and make them new again with a quick coat of paint, of course!

And so all you poor, I mean crafty, girls can do the same, I thought I would post a how to!

Here goes!

First things first…

Supplies:

- Acrylic paint in the color you desire. If you can't find the right one mix it up!
- A small paint brush. I used a flat one to get a better edge.
- Sand paper. I used 220 grit
- Masking tape or a very steady hand
- Mod Podge
- And shoes of course!

These are all things every girl should keep on hand.

First you need to scuff up your shoes a little just so the paint will stick. If you don't (like I did) the paint will rub off on your tights (or toes) in the places you missed. Don't over do it though. You just want to change the color, not the texture. That's why you should use a really fine grit sand paper.

Next put masking tape around the parts you don’t want to be painted. Like the heel or a buckle. Or, if you have a very steady hand just skip to the next step. I recommend tape though.

Paint! Allow to dry and then do a second coat if necessary. No need to sand between coats.

Apply one very thin coat of Mod Podge and allow to dry and then another. A third for good measure and ultra shiny protection. Please, I know it's really tempting once you get to this point to stick your little tootsies in your shiny new shoes, but try to resist until they're dry. :D





Now you have a wonderful new pair of shoes that no one else on the planet has! I hope you enjoyed my first tutorial!