Monday, February 1, 2010


I know zippers are a pain the behind to put into anything unless you sew them in very carefully. The easiest thing to do is… follow the instructions. Lol! Seriously! Your pattern will have specific instructions on how the zipper is to be put into your specific garment.If it says to press one seam allowance more than the other (half an inch and five eights is popular) it's because they want the zipper to be "lapped" or hidden with one seam allowance laying over the zipper and meeting the other seam allowance.If it says to press both seam allowances the same it is a "slot" or "centered" application. I will go over a lapped insertion in a dress

My sewing book has very detailed descriptions and depictions of how to do both kinds of insertions as well as invisible, either way you will need a zipper foot. A regular zipper foot is the little skinny one. An invisible zipper foot has grooves. You can get away with using the skinny one for both though.

Start by pressing the seam allowances under the specified amount. Then pin one side of the zipper tape to your garment opening.
(your pattern should tell you which side to do first, its usually the back side).

(sorry for the blurry pictures, its hard to take one handed pictures)

Then baste the zipper to the garment. I know this sounds like a pain, but it is to make sure that the zipper lays flat against your body and doesn't get all wavy and wonky.

Next you will do the same with the other side of your seam allowance. Make sure that the seam over laps the zipper and meets the other seam allowance, hiding the zipper.

Pin and baste just like the other side of the zipper.

Once you take the pins out make sure you inspect your job. Make sure it lays flat where it should and flares where it should. And the zipper is hidden all the way down.

Then you stitch! In the dress stitch the top and the bottom in a big long rectangle shape. Then give it a good press and you're done!

I'm going to leave you hanging on what the dress actually looks like since I haven't done outfit shots of it yet! Happy sewing!

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